A month since upgrading Printrbot to 1405 version.

Its over a month since I received my printrbot 1405 upgrade kit and unboxed it, dissembled the older printrbot simple and reassembled the the newer version. Many things went wrong with the upgrade, like missing and broken parts (yet again). The hot end shorted out due to melted wires. And the upgrade tock time getting replacement parts.

I been now printing with the newer 1405 printrbot version for almost 3 weeks and I got to say this is a well worth upgrade to the fishing line version I had before. The belts do not need adjusting as often as the fishing line did and keep tension and print at tight tolerances, better than before.

The auto leveling sensor work awesome once it was calibrated. (and that tock a few days to get just right) The 1405 Printrbot simple is now just as good as any other printer I used for doing PLA prints. I would recommend it. However be sure to know the maintenance of these printers can cost extra money than the list price, so keep that in mind. I already spend double the cost of this printer maintaining and upgrading it. However its still cheaper than most printers on the market even with the added cost. Also I learned way more owning this printer than any other on how to fix it and how it works.

I also made the table top for this new printer version to sit on. (acrylic) It has a opening and a hole that  help vent the printer board during printing (located under the machine). Also It doubles as a nice shelf for printer tools and tape when its not in use. (as seen in photo above)

Journey with Printrbot Simple takes turn for worst

Well I was hoping to avoid this, and writing about such issues. However I going to be true with the journey using this Micro 3D printer (The Printrbot Simple). No other 3D printer I have used or owned has given me so many problems as the Printrbot Simple. Actual I not even sure why its called simple, because so far its not been. The original cost of $350.00 seemed affordable at the time, however after 2 months (and less than 20 total prints with this printer) I spent to date $650.02 total on this printer just trying to get it to run and keep it working.

Things break super easy, unlike any printer I ever used. I not sure if I got a lemon or its cheaply made. I have learned more with this printer than an other in how to maintain them, fix them and maybe even design something better. However I only wanted to make stuff with them. I made a video of the latest issues I ran into, such as a dead hot end (the wires melted after only 19 prints at temps of 196-200/c)

The fan cord is also broken and finding a replacement seems impossible. Printrbot does not sell any single cords in there store. I search the web for fan cords with the same length and plugs jacks but can not locate any with this jack type. I sent in a support ticket to Printrbot but got a message that it would take 305 days. 305 days! that almost a year, are they insane?

 I was so excited about this Printrbot and it actual made some (19) top quality prints in tolerance. However If I had to do it again today, I would never got this product after all these problems and added/ hidden cost. I would spent my money on a better printer. Less than 2 months I already spent almost double the cost of this printer. Its just frustration, and wondering how much more money will I need to spend to get it working again, and how long will It be till something else breaks.

It sure been a learning lesson. The kind of lesson in you get what you pay for. Not that other more expensive 3D printers do not have issues either, they all do. However the Solidoodle 2 almost a year old has had far less problems and cost far less total to maintain over this printer.

Here my video on where I at with my Micro 3D printer just after 2 months and less than 20 prints made.




Edit: Updated I did end up finally fixing this, and did get help from printrbot. I found someone at that company that was able to help us fix this. Now its working 100 times better than the last printrbot simple I had. I have not had time to edit and upload new video because this is a busy time of the year to code software. I try to find some time after the July 4th holiday, to post new videos of some awesome makes with this new printer upgrade.

Printrbot 1405 upgrade tips

Since upgrading my Printrbot simple makers to the new design 1405 (belt version) I notice some odd things that first seem bad, but are fixable.

#1 The print size for the X and Y where smaller, but after close inspection of my printer, I notice the zip ties holding the belts tight are actual causing the travel of the bed to stop short. The zip ties need to be placed in a way that they do not cause the bed to hit the frame, which was happening on the X axis. The Y axis had some similar issues, however it was way more than just a zip tie causing the Y not to hit the Y axis N-stop. The screws holding the Y axis belt in place where actually causing the Y axis to stop short. The build instructions said to use 16mm screws however that was causing the issue of getting 95mm and not 100mm so I had replaced the 16mm screws with 10mm and the problem was fixed.

#2 Another issue I ran into was having to re-flash the firmware. I did not have any jumpers. And actually had no idea what they even where. I since found out you can use anything from paper clips to actual hard drive pin jumpers. I bought some at CDW and now have more than enough. However if I knew I would made sure I had this before I started upgrading the build. 

#3 There no firmware specially for the Makers simple 1405 printer, However its suggested to use the Metal simple firmware, which I did and it seems to work.

#4 If your on a mac and you need to add this firmware to the mac installer. Just drag and drop the firmware file onto the app icon for the firmware installer. Once it launches follow the on screen instructions. That will do it. This is something that not documented and I got the tip from Printrbot on twitter.

#5 after installing the firmware update on the mac the USB-serial address does change while keeping the old one listed as well, You have to reset the usb serial connection to reconnect to the printer. Its confusion because it still lists the old usb serial address.

I documenting this because many of these things are not explained well in one place. And are some what confusing when you have to go all over the internet looking for answers to why something is not working right.

Also finding the fan hood for this model was not very easy; I bought the upgrade kit so I would never found this if I did not ask Printrbot where it was. Its located here on this page of there web site. Fan hood file

Edit:

The firmware I ended up using was suggested by printrbot support Its for the metal simple found here: https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin/releases/tag/metal-simple_bedlevel_v1 Just make sure to reset the M92 calibration values and to also set the M211 print dimensions mine are set at: M211 X100.00 Y100.00 Z112.00 and to save them using M500. I know there many people confused which one to use. Ian at Printrbot support was the one to tell me to use this firmware and it worked great since setting the new M211 and M92 values.

(I now heard there maybe a newer firmware for this printer, but when I tried it , it was missing the M212 data. I reverted back to the linked version above. I not sure why Printrbot is confusing there users of this printer version, It would seem to me they need a landing page for this printer with all the info to get it to work. Even by the goofy build instruction they have. It seems like this printer was not fully tested and documented before going out the door. If you plan to update you may want to wait tell everything sorted out.)

Printrbot 2014 upgrade kit build headaches

I had so much fun building my Printrbot Jr. and the Printrbot simple 2014 (fishing line version) that I thought this was going to be fun too, upgrading the 2014 (fishing line version) to the 2014(belt driven version). It was not fun at all.

Printrbot made it harder than it had to be. The build instructions where a absolute mess. Almost every step is in the wrong order. I found myself taken the printer apart several times because the instructions put most of the steps in the wrong order. That made it a major headache.
Also the new wooden frame had holes smaller than the M3 nuts, had holes in places you could not reach at all. Had missing parts between the upgrade kit and the previous model. After several trips to my local hardware store where required to finish the upgrade.

I did a video overview of several areas to watch out for. Also the last step of feeding wires into the printer board area, the tape thing did not work because the hole to small for that many wires. I bought some picture frame wire at my local hardware store and feed one wire in at a time using the picture frame wire. It worked perfectly.

Also it should be noted that there are more tools needed to do this built over the past version, you need 3mm, 2.5mm, 2mm and 1.5mm metric hex/ allen wrenches. The 2 new sizes 3mm is for the belt bushing screws and the 2mm is for the GT2 gears and the Z coupler screws.

Here a video:

Printrbot Maker Kit Upgrade 2014 Unboxing.

I order the June 2014 upgrade kit for the Printrbot Simple 3D printer over 10 days ago. UPS sat on the package for 5 days claiming bad weather, while the package was only 2 miles south of my location. Over that 5 days there was never bad weather here. Good Job UPS! not.

This is the kit that upgrades from the fishing line version of the printrbot simple to the belt driven version with auto bed leveling to boot for a extra $45.

I did a unboxing of this kit, cause I can see why some may be on the fence for upgrading, specially if there printer already works awesome, like mine was with the fishing line version.

Here the video, Enjoy.

Why Open Source Matters with 3D Printers

When it comes to 3D printers many things can and do break and need replacing. If your printer is not open source then you either have to pay money to have it fix, or worst the printer was discounted and you have to just mod it to fixed it. Well that is why I picked a open source printer. I already had to print out replacement parts for the Printrbot Simple and having access to the cad file of parts comes in very handy.

Part #22 of the laser cut wood broke not once but twice. The first time Printrbot sent me one, because I could not print without it. The second time I had several 3D printed replacements waiting for that part to fail again.

The printed part actual seems to work better here as the area that broke with the wooden part was to thin. The plastic is much more strong and has not shown any signs of failing.

If your in the market for a 3D printer, consider Open Source for the reason of being able to fix it your self, and maybe even improve it, where it fails.

Many of the none open source printers cost more than the printrbot simple alone just to fix it, with something you could have printed out if it was open source.

Step #1 calibration time

Once finished building a 3D printer and after you connected your printer to the host software and added the settings suggest by Printrbot. The first thing needed is the most important thing, calibration. Every single 3D printer needs calibration to work correctly. While yes you can print a calibration cube, I skip doing this until I calibrate the printer by measuring the printer feed rate, and x and y moves manually. The z axes I do actual really on with the calibration cube.

What is needed; is printer connected to Repetier-Host and working (working in you can control the printer in the movement of the x,y and z axes. Heat the hot end, manually extruded filament, retrieve printer firmware logs and set printer firmware settings etc.), Blue tape  added to the printing bed. Sharpie, 2.5mm hex wrench, #2 Phillips Screwdriver, pencil, ruler and calipers or micrometer and maybe a calculator.

The Printrbot suggested printer software is Repetier-Host (Note that the Mac OSX Version uses different labels and terms on its UI than Linux and Windows versions do). However there other software you can use. I start calibration with leveling the printer bed. Some of the newer Printrbots use a auto bed leveling sensor witch allows you to skip this step or do things differently. However leveling a print bed is not hard it just takes some patiences.

My Printrbot simple has N-Stops including one for the Z axes. The end stop will need to be adjusted along with the 4 spring loaded screws on the bed plate. A index card works as a good paper weight to test if the bed is level. The paper or card should slide under the nozzle and the bed with slight friction in all four corners and dead center of the print bed to be level. This step takes about (10 to 45 minutes the first time) and 5 to 10 minutes (in future times). I notice that between every 15 to 20 prints the bed may need to be re-leveled, or after transportation. There many videos on youtube on bed leveling with many different kind of printers. The technique is nearly the same for every printer (just note if you have a N-Stop for the Z-Axes you need to adjust the screw for it here).

Extruder Feed calibration.

This might be one of the most important ones to do first, because if it is way off (and being this was a kit, it will be way off) you will not be able to even print the calibration cube because it may clog your nozzle first if it uses to much filament.)

You need to heat the hot-end (extruder) to 196 Temperature and wait till it gets to 196 before you feed. (note the picture is not up to temp yet)

Now while your waiting you can check some settings on the firmware. To do so while within the print-panel tab(on Mac) this is called something different on Windows and Linux versions of the software. But the steps are the same.

Type M501 into the G-Code field and hit send. This will get the current firmware settings for the printrbot. which will be displayed in the console logs at the bottom of the software window.

The line of text your looking for starts with M92 locate this line of text and take note of the last item of that line mine reads out  E590.00 This could be different for you. This is the current firmware the printer is set to extrude at. The E stands for extrude. write down this value it will be needed with our calculation of calibrating the E value or the extruder feed rate.

It looks something like this:

< 1:07:38 PM: echo:  M92 X63.36 Y63.36 Z2272.72 E590.00

The Blue value above is the E Value.

Once your up to heat if you have not add the PLA filament to the extruder and manually feed 10mm. If that spit out some hot plastic then your working. (If it did not you need to trouble shoot the issue. Make sure your heated to temp and also make sure the filament is pushed into the hot end and the tension spring is tighten, keep trying until you can get your color filament to show coming out of the bottom of the print nozzle.You may have to heat up the extruder a bit, but do not go over 205 for the printrbot simple with PLA. Printrbot itself suggest 195-205 Celsius.)

Once your ready to go, Get a ruler and a sharpie (Some use tape but I tell you when I first did this test on this kit, I extruded over the mark. and if I used tape I would had tape jammed in the hot end. and that would have been a major problem, That why I suggest a sharpie.)

You need to measure 100mm up from the from the top of where the filament comes out of the extruder and mark the plastic with the sharpie at 100mm, (Note 50mm can be used if you did not build a kit however Its very likely that with the kit it will extruded over 50mm the first time out, when you tell it to extruded 10mm) (also make sure this is tighter than the image below, A one handed photo with my cell phone did not show the correct way, but you should get the idea.)

Ok once you have your mark and you noted where you measured at, like I measures from the top of the extruder motor. This is important because you remeasures this in a second. Now on the Print Panel of Repeatier host Extruded 10mm of filament. Now measure the amount it actually extruded this value is used in the calculation to do the calibration.

The Calculation is as follows : 

(Old firmware value * Software move) / Actual hardware move = New Firmware value

I use my values as an example but your will likely be different

my old firmware value was 590.0

my Software move was 10 mm

and my actual hardware move was 59.5mm

(590*10)/59.5=99.16

My new firmware value would be 99.16 your likely will be different.

Once you calculate your  value out and have your new firmware value, we can now save it to the printer. To do this Type M92 E (Your value) like my example M92 E99.16 in the same g-code sender. and hit sent. Then type M500 to save this value to the firmware. You can then type M501 again to verify that it saved to the value.

The Calculation

(Old firmware value * Software move) / Actual hardware move = New Firmware value)

is used also for the X, Y and Z calibration. However I will not go over the Z calibration because I find the best way to test this is by actually printing out the calibration. cube.

For the Y and X calibration you need the blue painters tape, a pencil and a ruler. I first home all axis then move the z axles up from the bed about 30mm or enough room to fit your ruler under it standing on its side. 

For the Y mark where the nozzle is at the home mark. and measure 50mm back from the front of the print bed. and mark a line. And for the X axis measure right from the home nozzle mark 50mm and make another mark. 

Now you can home the extruder again and move the extruder back 50mm on the y axis. Now measures the how much it moved. This will be the actual hardware move. 

Now type M501 back into the software to receive the M92 firmware settings for the X and Y axis. This is the same as what you did to get the extruder setting. However you need the Y value for the Y calculation and the X value for the X calculation.

I use my settings again just as a example you want to to your own measurements because all printers are different.

(Old firmware value * Software move) / Actual hardware move = New Firmware value)

my old firmware value was 63.63

my Software move was 50 mm

and my actual hardware move was 36mm

(63.63*50)/36=88

My new firmware value would be 88 your likely will be different. Before you save this setting do your x setting now. home the nozzle again and move the printhead over 50mm mark its location now calculate the difference.

I once again use my value as example only (yours will be different most likely)

(Old firmware value * Software move) / Actual hardware move = New Firmware value)

my old firmware value was 63.63

my Software move was 50 mm

and my actual hardware move was 39mm

(63.63*50)/39=81.23

Now you want to save these two new settings to your printers firmware so this time type

M92 X(your value) Y(your value)  like my example( M92 X81.23 Y88 ) and hit send, then follow by M500 to save this to the firmware. Now you can type M501 and check the M92 has all your calibrated steps. If so you can now go and print out a calibration cube to check them and see if the Z axes needs adjusting. If it does you can use the same steps. 

M501 to get current firmware values

M92 the line with the firmware value to get and set. X, Y, Z, E values are part of M92.

M500 to save a setting to the firmware.

These settings should save to the printer even when it is off and unplugged. If its not you may need a new battery on the printer board.

Below is the 5mm Calibration Cube step print I printed out after doing the Manual Calibration. I can report that my z axis actual did not need any calibration and the print was in prefect tolerance just after doing the manuel calibration above, Not bad for a first print ( a month ago) . This might not be the same case for you if not use the same steps to fine tune the setting to the printed cube (as mine pictured below)

5mm Calibration Cube Steps 

Download at Thingiverse for free: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24238

Tools needed to print with.

To use this printer I found there several tool that are needed. If your considering this printer the printrbot simple, you may want to get some of these tools to better help maintain and use the printer.

1. Blue Painters tape (It does not have to be blue) Painters tape is one of the preferred and simplest printing surfaces to get PLA plastic to stick to. Depending on the brand you get you may also need to sand the surface of the tape with 0.8 grit sand paper. However I discovered a off brand that has awesome sticking with PLA without sanding. Pro Tapes & specialties brand. There tape is often found at hobby shops for use with painting models.

Some people however do not use painters tape they use glass or mirrors with hair spray. What choice you pick is depended on what you prefer. Also your location in the world may also be a factor. I live in north central america where it does not get super hot and is cool to cold most of the year. Your climate may play a factor on what is required to get a print to stick.

2. Wire or micro cutters These are useful for cutting PLA Filament to change colors.

3. Guitar Pick Some of you might be puzzled here by this one, however it is very useful specially on the printrbot simple. This printer extruder motor can overheat which in turn causes the printer to stop feeding filament at a certain point in a print. (usually with bigger prints that takes hours) to adjust for this you need to adjust the POT on the printer-board (a tiny screw) to lower the amount of power to the motor to run it cooler and not fail a print again. Printrbot warns not to use metal screwdriver as this can short-circuit the printrbot and to use plastic like a guitar pick.

Note: You have a 3D printer you can print this out Check out Thingiverse item: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17874

4. 0.3mm or smaller sewing needle or Guitar string - used to clean out a clog in the printer nozzle.

5. Extra Zip/ Cable Ties - With this printer I found myself needed to make adjustment that needed cutting zip ties, having extra around will save a extra trip to the hardware store later on.

5. Extra 200 lb. Test fishing line - This is not required, however I suggest it as a future consideration in keeping the X and Y drives maintain tight over long extended use. (I not had to change mine yet, but I am sure I will sooner or later.) If your considering the GT2 belt mod skip over this one.

6. Thread Locker Blue - If you built the kit you will need this to add to the gear to the extruder motor. Without it the filament drive gear will fall off due to vibration after several seconds.

7. Spool Holder - If you buy one or built one, you need something to hold the PLA spool of filament. Doing so will make the filament feed better into the hot end. I ended up just buying one myself because it cost less than buying PVC and building one.

8. Sharpie - Helpful for Calibrating the extruder filament feed rate.

9. Measurement tools - A ruler that is flat and measures in mm and calipers or micrometer that have mm measurements. Many people seem to use digital ones, however there not very precise as non digital ones are (keep that in mind).

10. 2.5mm & 1.5mm allen / hex wrenches - All the bolts on this printer are either 2.5 or 1.5mm and some of them need adjustment from time to time.

11. #2 Phillips Screwdriver - is used to tighten or loosen the filament feed tension spring.